Claridge Hotel & Casino Restaurants

The Twenties

By Tom Reagan

They bill themselves as being smaller, but friendlier. The Claridge Casino Hotel pulls this off well from the time I arrived at Valet Parking, the doorman greeted me as if he had known me for years with a cheery "Back Again"? I thought the premise that he really remembered me was nice. Dinner at the Twenties Steak House was likewise on a familiar note. The Twenties has been around forever although this is their second location. They were in an area on a lower floor now occupied by slot machines. We were there on the night that was the final night of the Claridge’s All American Buffet that closed, not due to lack of interest, but lack of people who were eating and then splitting with not even a Sayonara to the gaming tables and machines. A loss loser not by design. But the business at the Claridge’s gourmet rooms and other restaurants remains very healthy.

The Twenties has a varied menu even though the focus is on meats. For starters I recommend the Stuffed Mushroom Caps that are filled with jumbo lump crabmeat, red peppers, scallions and garlic @ $7.95. There are 9 other what they call Boardwalk Starters to choose from including a jumbo onion, lightly coated, fried, diced and sliced so you can peel it section by section. Order the Bloomin’ Onion @ $4.75. Next, move on to the 6 selections of soups and salads. I’d go with the traditional French Onion Soup but a warning, it is very hot as the cheese top keeps the heat in. $4.50. Being diet conscious, I skipped the salad and went right to a listing called the Garlic Steak Sir Duke, a big steak named after I presume, the big guy, John Wayne. The Twenties broils this New York Strip, and smothers it in chopped garlic and butter giving it a different taste. The strong garlic does complement making for a powerful taste blend. Just don’t breathe too heavily for the rest of the night. Medium rare is my choice of preparation. $21.95. The range of prices on the Entrée listing goes from a $16.95 Orange Roughy up to a pricey Chateaubriand for Two at $47.95. In between theres a Ragtime Prime Rib, Empire State Sirloin, Chicago Southside Filet, a Charleston Veal Chop, and a selection of Seafood items such as Lindbergh’s Lobster Tails. Most of the items have neat 20’s memory titles. Along with your steak, don’t miss a side of the Twenties Garlic Horseradish Mashed Potatoes. If your looking for the Sweetpotatoes on former menu’s, you won’t find them. Deleted which is sad. I don’t especially like sweets but the Twenties did them up well. In the breads department, don’t pass on the Rye Raisin Bread.

Dinner for 2 with all the fixins including desserts and drinks will run a bit over $100.00. Taking into account the very attentive service, food quality, portion size, atmosphere and pricing,I give "The Twenties Supper Club" at the Claridge a rating of ***+ 3 ½ +*** Stars, Excellent Plus.